!±8± Sun Blaze 48" 4 Lamp T5 High Output Fluorescent Plant Grow Light
Friday, December 30, 2011
Sunday, December 25, 2011
Fixing That Annoying Blinking Fluorescent Light
So now its time to roll up our sleeves and get to work. There are some very important guidelines to follow when doing electrical work:
-MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF AND THERE IS NO CHANCE OF IT ACCIDENTALLY BEING TURNED ON WHILE WORKING ON IT.
-Have all the materials you will need for your project. There is nothing worse than being half way in your project to find out you don't have everything you need.
-Have the right tool for the job your doing
Following our safety guide we need to turn the power off to the light. You can just turn the switch off to the light and that will remove power, but we need to make sure nobody will accidentally turn it on when your working on it. So find your fuse box or circuit panel and shut the breaker off as well. Look for breaker tags such as gen lighting, or lighting.
Now that we know we are safe to work on the fluorescent light here are the tools you will need:
-A fiberglass ladder (make sure it is fiberglass when working with electricity because fiberglass does not conduct electricity.)
-Lineman pliers
-Nut driver
-Wire strippers
-Voltage tester
Now that we have our tools we need to rule out some simple fixes. I have been on calls that I felt so bad charging a customer for something they easily could have done themselves. Number one thing to do is replace the bulb. Keep in mind there are two types most commonly found and they are T-12 and T-8. The T-12 is a fat tube and a T-8 is thin in circumference, that's the easiest way to figure out what it is. If your still not sure remove the bulb and look at the end of the tube and there will be a model number on it with either T-12 of T-8 in or around that area.
Ok, so we changed the bulb and it's not the fix. The problem most likely lies in the ballast. By removing the center cover we can access the ballast, you should see wire colors of black, red, blue, yellow, white and green. Before you remove anything you need to make sure you have the right type of ballast. Make sure the model numbers are the same and the type of ballast is the same. All newer fixtures use electronic ballasts, while older models might use rapid start, and magnetic type ballasts as some examples. We know we have the right ballast so what I do before I even remove the ballast is take the black and white wire from the ceiling box and remove it from the ballast without touching the bare copper and test them with your voltage tester to make absolute sure they are dead,cap each one with a wire nut, these wires are what give power to the ballast.
Look at the colors and where there connected to. I then cut the wires with my linesmans pliers after the wire nut. I do this because when you put the new ballast in it will have the same colored leads as the old one, so you can use it to help you reconnect the colors of wires to the light. After you cut the wires remove the ballast with your nut driver making sure not to lose that nut you will need it later!!! CAUTION: The ballast may be hot to the touch, put some gloves on or use a rag when handling the ballast. Install the new ballast by aligning it into the slots and the hole where the nut was. Simply fasten the nut down and the ballast should now be secured to the fixture. Now connect blue to blue, red to red, yellow to yellow using orange wire nuts. Next hook up the black wire being careful because this is your "HOT" wire to the black and the white to the white. One thing you need to do when connecting the wires is to make sure that you twist your wires together, do not just rely on the wire nut. If you do not twist your wires it could cause a fire by not having a good connection.
Place the cover back on the fixture, put some new lamps in and your done.
Turn the breaker back on at the panel, turn the switch on and let there be light. Now the bragging starts.
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Sunlight Supply Presents: Titan Atlas 1 Setup
Sunlight Supply, Inc. www.sunlightsupply.com http The Atlas 1 (Item #: 702615) delivers precise CO2 control! This easy to use controller is the leading edge in CO2 release & control in your growing environment. Just dial in your setpoint and the Atlas 1 does the rest of the work for you! It maintains the perfect level of CO2 to allow your plants to reach their maximum potential. * Digital control board delivers precision CO2 control * Maximize your garden's CO2 level while minimizing CO2 tank or LP consumption * Adjust CO2 set point, modify elevation or calibrate with just two buttons * Controls any CO2 equipment that is operated by 120 volt power * Durable powder coated, steel enclosure will stand up to the toughest conditions * Adds CO2 only during daylight period by using the controllers integrated photocell * 50 parts per million (ppm) deadband/hysteresis built into set point * Memory retains controllers settings even when the power is off * 15 amps/120 Volt/60 Hz * 3 year warranty Titan Controls principles are clear: build a durable product that satisfies our customer's needs, build a quality product with the best components available in the marketplace today and build a reputable product line that's synonymous with the Sunlight Supply traditions. Titan Controls is proud to have accomplished each of these principles. The powder coated, steel chassis' protect your investment for years to come! The UL/ETL rated components provide you with the confidence and security ...
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Friday, December 16, 2011
2 ft 4 bulb T5 Grow Light Fluorescent Lighting System with bulbs
!±8± 2 ft 4 bulb T5 Grow Light Fluorescent Lighting System with bulbs
Brand : ViaVoltTM | Rate : 
| Price : $70.99
Post Date : Dec 16, 2011 05:32:33 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
| Price : $70.99Post Date : Dec 16, 2011 05:32:33 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
ViaVoltTM T5-24, 2 Ft - 4 Lamp (24" L x 13 1/4" W x 3" H)8,000 lumens! At 2,000 lumens and 24 Watts per bulb, the T-5 boasts itself as the strongest fluorescent lighting around. Steel housing Louvered and slotted for efficient cooling95% reflective aluminum reflectorMajor brand solid state electronic ballasts1 year rebuild or replacement warrantyComes complete with 2 chrome hangers and 12 ft power cordBulbs included (24 Watts each)120V only Perfect for propagation!
More Specification..!!
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Sunday, December 11, 2011
Sunlight Supply Presents the Hang Time Drying Rack
www.sunlightsupply.com • Use to easily dry flowers and herbs. • Carabiner clip to make hanging simple. • Durable polyester netting. • Wire frames to make shelves rigid and sturdy. • Easy to use, snap together buckles to quickly add or remove shelves. 728765 HANGTIME DRYING RACK - MEDIUM is 24" Diameter 728766 HANGTIME DRYING RACK - LARGE is 32" Diameter. Available exclusively from Sunlight Supply, Inc. Specializing in thewholesale of indoor horticulture, organics and hydrogardening supplies. About Sunlight Supply Founded in 1995, Sunlight Supply, Inc., is a Vancouver, WA based manufacturer and distributor of specialty gardening supplies. Our product offering of over 4000 different products include everything needed for indoor, hydroponic, organic and greenhouse gardening. We also distribute a wide variety of products for the outdoor gardener. Sunlight Supply is a wholesale only business, selling our products exclusively through our Authorized Dealer Partners. Our exclusive brands include Sun System brand grow lights, Sun Blaze T5 HO Fluorescent grow lights, Galaxy Digital Ballasts, Master Blaster 1500 watt Digital Ballasts, Adjust a Wings, Phresh Carbon Filters, Ultra Sun horticultural lamps, Eco Plus, Ideal Air, Titan Controls, Flame Defender Fire Extinguishers, Mother Earth, Gro Pro and many more. Sun System has become the #1 leading brand of grow lights for indoor and greenhouse gardening. Whether you are a hobbyist growing one orchid or a large commercial greenhouse ...
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Wednesday, December 7, 2011
How to Grow Pounds 400 watt HPS Grow Light, Grow Tent, Carbon Filter
This is a Turnkey Grow setup that will have you growing pound after pound without breaking your budget!
Friday, December 2, 2011
Converting to a Planted Freshwater Tank
In a freshwater aquarium, the benefits of live plants over plastic or silk are numerous. Fish feel more at home amongst natural plants - they are more likely to lay eggs in their leaves, or for fry to take refuge in them. They keep the water cleaner by absorbing wastes and producing oxygen. For most people, though, what is most important is what is most obvious: they look much better! They are the real deal, and an imitation just doesn't hold a candle to the real thing.
So what do you need to do to convert from artificial to live plants? Here are the five steps I recommend.
1) Get a book on planted aquariums.
Try to get a book that has lots of text, not just pictures. Books that are mostly photographs are very helpful for inspiration, but to gain a core knowledge you need to start with something like "The Simple Guide to Planted Aquariums" by Rhonda Wilson and Terry Ann Barber, or "The Encyclopedia of Aquarium Plants" by Peter Hiscock.
2) Ditch the gravel...probably.
Most people want stem plants in their planted aquarium. Stem plants do not root well in gravel. Very fine gravel can work, especially if it is rounded, but the pebble like gravel that is popular these days will not be friendly to stem plants. Their fine roots do best in sandy substrates.
Plain sand can work, such as pool filter sand, which is available from any pool supply store. Another option is play sand, as long as it does not say "Not for use in aquariums" - Quickcrete is one popular brand. Stem plants will need supplementation with root tabs in order to do their best in plain sand.
A name brand substrate such as Flourite or Eco Complete is best, but can be costly for larger tanks. For tanks 30 gallons and under, it's best to go ahead and spring for a proprietary substrate...you'll have a greater chance for success.
If you do not want to change over from gravel, it is still possible to have a planted tank. However, you'll probably need to confine yourself to plants that do not need to be rooted in the substrate, such as floating plants (e.g. Amazon frogbit) epiphytes (e.g. Java fern, Anubias) mosses and liverworts (e.h. Java moss, Subwassertang)
3) Upgrade your lighting.
Although this is rapidly changing, standard aquarium kits do not usually come with lighting suitable for plants. A single fluorescent bulb is not going to grow very much, very well. A newer kind of lighting on the market is T5 lighting. Compact and energy efficient, it is rapidly becoming a favorite with planted as well as marine/reef hobbyists.
Compact fluorescent lighting is another option. If you are the least bit handy, DIY kits are available to convert standard aquarium hoods into more plant friendly options for lighting.
There is a plethora of information on the internet and forums about this topic...research heavily before spending much money!
4) Settle on a fertilizer regimen, and stick to it.
Plants grow best with a nutritive substrate (or an inert substrate such as sand, with additional tablet supplementation) and a regular dosing of liquid fertilizer.
How much and what kind to use, depends on many factors - the types of plants in use, the density of the planting, the size of the tank, the amount of lighting, etc.
High lighting will demand more fertilizer, and CO2 supplementation is likely to be necessary. Moderate lighting might be able to get away without CO2, although the plants will not grow as fast or as lush. For low lighting levels, CO2 is likely not to be necessary. Research online and find a liquid fertilizer and fertilizer regimen that works for you.
5) Attack algae - strategically!
Algae woes are inevitably the down side of planted aquariums. An aquarium that previously had little or not algae, and was able to be controlled by a dwarf plecostomus, snail and/or otocinclus, may now be covered in numerous forums of the stuff!
Algae is a nuisance, but it is also a helpful indicator of imbalance. Like symptoms of an illness, algae is helpful in making a diagnosis of your tank. Are the lights on too long? Are the bulbs the wrong spectrum? Have I added too much fertilizer? Am I not fertilizing enough? Do I have too few plants for the amount of lighting I have?
These are the questions you need to present yourself when algae springs up. Algae is a problem that almost always has a solution, you just need to research and ask questions in order to find out what the solutions are.
The exceptions are brown algae (really diatoms, and not an algae at all...common in newly established tanks, but generally goes away on its own) and blue-green algae (really Cyanobacteria, a bacteria as opposed to an algae). These are not algae, but will still tell you something informative about the state of your tank. Some may require your intervention, while others will just go away on their own as the tank matures.
Water changes, water changes, water changes...this is the mantra of the aquarium keeper! When things are off balance, a water change often serves to correct it. They never hurt and sometimes help.
Last but not least, I strongly encourage the new planted tank keeper to join a forum. There are numerous ones online, some dedicated to planted tanks, and others including a planted tank section within a larger forum. Photo galleries from other members will serve to inspire you, and the knowledge and suggestions of other members will help you grow in your hobby.
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